SWAP TO POWER STEERING RACK
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Everbody who have had a bomber Chevy ( -49 - 54 ), knows about the center steering pivot arm who easily get some slack,, specially when front suspension etc. is modified.
After some years strugling with this , I´d decided to do a major swap of steering parts.
The decicion was to fit a modern steering rack, with the most suited from the German
Opel Vectra / Calibra. Point of using this is that the hole middle section is the movable part
( with steering rods connections ) who would be pretty easy fitted in  use of orginal steering rods...behind the front framesupport, and a use of Chevy Van steering column. Both resonable priced at junkyards here.  In this chapter I´d try to show how this swap is done.
If you dont have a lot of time, garageintrest and creative sulotions thinkin´ ,  DONT DO THIS!      exactly measurements are of need!

The swap uses lot of time for check,recheck and measurement before mount, and this is crucial
for good behavior on the road.And Rackmounting is´nt half the work. What about get the right fanbelt wheel on the servopump, or rework another. Get oilhose,tube and relocate it?
For shure, if used  not powersteered type, half time was used. . . .


RIGHTCLICK ON PICTURE AND CHOOSE VIEW, TO SEE LAGRER SIZED PICs


Here is an overwiew of  the rack, fastners at side ends, steering column connection, AND the middle section ( between the grummets ) who moves in sideways direction as steeringwheel is turned. At the middle section is also the orginal connector for the tie rods. Possible this needs a rework, or another bracket fabricated. The minimum widht of the racks fastners is approx. 8cm longer than between frame, so some brackets under framerails should fit for secure fastning. The right mountingclamp is adjustable sideways.
The orginal opel steering rods have a total of 11.4cm shorter wideness to use theese ones
directly at wheelconnections., testing will show possibility for to adjust this or new ones must
be made, or that orginal Chevy rods could be a easier fit.Because the forward middle angle of Chevy  tierods, a midsection connector must be fabricated, and then the reversed Rs <> Ls Opel steeringrods is used.Thats because of the rackjoints ( see  Tie Rods )
*Tube outlettube near the columnjoin nearly interfearence with the frame.
CHEVY VAN TILTCOLUMN is in use, after orginal steering column/ box is removed.
The hole in firewall needed a small adjustment to get axle and gearshifter trough.
The upper support at dashboard doesnt fit the larger tubesize, and needs a new one.
This column  have tilt, and is easy to get cheap on aftermarket or junkyards.

     
Left pic shows the reworked lower columnmounting who got a bigger square plate,
and to right  the hole column, with all secure mounted complete. The bolts also holds the pedalmount to firewall mounting.
Because of beaty, the upper mount get a bracket plating to hide mout to dashboard.
And oldstyle  wooden steerinwhell is modified to fit the column.

RACKMOUNTs is fabricated.. For easyness of mounting, this has got  bolts welded secure in mounts.
If not the frame must get holes for the bolts exaggering inside.
The mounts is bolted with 4 bolts each, trough the frame sideflanges.
Mounting is measured for excact location, this is necessary for straightness without binding.

On the Chevy the rack is mounted under frame, and needed adjustment on angle to get goog connection to steeringcolumn. This angle shouldnt be over 35 degrees re: experts.
At Chevy Van this reaches 40 - 45 degrees, and with the Van connect, it seems no problem.

  
To get clearence for the  highpressure       
hose connection, the framerailflange
was cutted of      
2cm x 5cm.






The rack is finished bolted in the mountings.
Middle tierod connector is seen in lower picturepart

Speed Direct - Delivers a Stereoid TM Rack conversion for ex. the Corvette, who is similar to the Opel rack used here.
ABOUT MOUNTING so far:  the rack needs rotational adjustment 
clockwise from orginal Opel mounting to get the steeringcolumn
mount  the nearest possible, without interference.Sideway adjustment to get the clearence of framerail
for pressurehose, and handbrake connection with ragjoint.
A notch in frame is the possible sulotion.
Cupling from the Chevy Van steering shaft to the Opel rack ragjoint difference with 1mm,.

To use the orginal Chevy Van steerlinkage,
a rod with double D .and other end D needs fabricating. One end in 19mmØ , and other18mmØ., 70 mm long, to get this connected
to the Opel ragjoint.
Finished orginal linkage have 3cm slidetravel
in/ out   All fastens with setscrews as orginal.

Orginal gearshift connection rod is mounted with orginal mount on the Van column.

Powersteerings need a pump..............and this needs a place on the engine.....when no mount is in garage, then fix one myself! Also took a day to finish ,for pump and adjustable generator
                                                             Mount.
OIL ,PowerSteeringtubes  -  theese go around spooking the chassie?
Theese tubes has the lenght to lower the oiltemperature, and because of pressure the tube dont like to be bent otherwise than orginal, breakdown is possible with much altered curbs.
The tubes needed major rework and is now located reaching from reservoar to pump,from pump, forward on inside framerail lefttside.cross in front of radiator and back again to the rack.

And thats the high pressure hose/ tubing. Return hose is easy, from rack to reservoar
TIE RODs -       Theese are the Opel orginals., they have roundeye connections in midsections,
and is made to connect to the rack.

TIE ROD Connection- Outer end connect as orginal Chevy, same size on
steering arms, bracket for the tierods inner connect needs manufactoring, must be angled to get tierods straight . To avoid using this, need of cutting from underside of the frame to get the rack high enough, and rack must be mounted at orginal forw / rearward rotated angle.
Instead Im using a bracket between tierods and rackconnection, ( tierods MUST have the same angle as lower wheelsupport to avoid bumpsteer, when car stands on ground)

(rightclick and choose wiew  image to get bigger pictures)


       

The major items to measure or verify to do a rack conversion will be:

1. Do you have clearance in a straight line across side to side between the two tie rod centers and under the engine?  If not the rack will not work.  Remember you can space the rack DOWN to get it level, but you can't angle the ends but very little.

2. What is the exact length between the two tie rod ends now?

3. You'll need to make sure the steering linkage connection can be accessed on the rack, so measuring from the left (driver's) side tie rod end, between what points can this linkage come up toward the column?

  If you want to go power, there are two choices - box or rack.  The box works fine if you have the space to put it and can find one that will function in conjunction with what you have.  Of the problems that come up are incompatability between the pitman arm and either the box or linkage.
Also, you have to consider the column linkage because of the combination column /box I believe is used on your car.  Modify or replace the column and linkage...
  The rack has its own problems.  First, you need to have one the right width tie rod end center to center and have the distance between the main body of the rack and the tie rod roughly the same as the length of the A-arm from pivot to ball joint to prevent bump steer.  Fortuneatly, Chris Alston makes racks in I believe 1-inch increments so this can be solved if you can't find a suitable donor with the right dimensions.
   Second, you have to get linkage between the column and the rack.  I believe your Chevy has an integral box/column shaft and so you will have to modify this or go with a late column and linkage.
   Third, you have to align the rack between the two tie rod mount points on the spindles in a reasonably straight line.  This could be a problem with clearances - either with the pan or with frame members.

  
1. Use the power assist ram setup with directional valve from a Granada. The ram attaches to the frame on one end, the cross-shaft or tie rod on the other, and the spool valve is placed near the Pitman. It's a bit of fabrication, but it might be a way to go and keep the OEM front.
   2. Use a rack out of a Cavalier or Beretta or something like it that has the center pivot - similar to what the Chevy already has but delete the bell crank in the middle as well as the OEM box and attach the tie rods directly to the rack.

1951 Chevrolet suspension works quite well and was actually used in the Corvette thru 1962

the A-arms must be the exact length of the steering actuator arms to prevent "bump steer."  Bump steer varies the front wheel toe alignment as your wheels go up and down.  So if the A-Arms and steering actuator arms are not matched lengths you'll almost always be out of alignment, affecting your traction and impacting your handling.

S
teering Rack Spech:
New ASTRA 1455kg. A Mondeo 2.0 weighs almost 100kg less,
GM Saturn L  2000 , has the Epsilon platform like the Opel Vectra
Newest Malibu (2004) is built on the same chassis ,General Motors' Epsilon global architecture,as the Saab 9-3 and the Opel Vectra & Calibra.
Same rack on Saturn Aura, Opel Mervia, Opel Cavalier, Saab 9-3 & 9-5, with 3.0 V6